Simple and Sweet and Sick
(no pictures are uploaded, camera is broken)
Near the streets of eastern Tehran, there’s a bubble. This bubble, if looked at in any light, contains all the fragile pieces of Iran. It holds the rickety hunch-backed beggar woman, who I pay as often as I see (lately, I haven’t seen her near the intercross…if she’s gone; I hope it’s to her heaven). It holds the small boy selling fortunes through Hafez’s recitations. It holds the carpenter; working hard with his apprentices in 44○C weather (Maestro says he can cook his favorite omelets on a rock in the heat!). There’s the pet store which sells only “clean” birds; finely plumaged African Grey Parrots sell for 250,0000 Rials or near 280 dollars. Near those streets, there is filth, as far as the eye can see. Garbage lines the streets; some partially ripped open, some scattered into the sewer system; which also runs openly. There are plants, meagerly planted, and in some places, as in Narmak Region, there is a reminiscent sense of suburban Santa Clara, or Nevada; just green enough to please your palette. Otherwise, the immediate areas of Eastern Tehran are a far cry from Northern Tehran. There are no big brand name stores or shopping malls there, either, just the everyday "baghali" or grocery, and the small-business clothes stores.
You may notice that there is a true balance of theory in this area of Tehran, where most citizens drive a Paykan (built and no longer manufactured by Iran Khodro Co.), or a Pride (manufactured by Kia, another Korean MNC with offices in Iran). There are the occasional Maxima cars (built by another Korean company) which cost nearly 350-400 million Rials, and the rare Political “Siasy” car (Benz, Mercedes, Toyota Prado, and SUVs) driving through for business/pleasure. The reality of Iran in theory is the greater middle-class-poor and the rich-to-richer tycoons in the north. A poor-middle-class citizen, in the East of Tehran, driving a taxi (Paykan or Pride) geting nearly 2,000,000 Rials a month is more common in Iran than a Mitsubishi/Honda/Peugeot 206, rich-to-richer man, getting nearly 20,00,0000 Rials a month, besides foreign investments and or business gifts/bonus salaries.
It’s noticeable that the majority of the east, although similar to the southern grottoes, has a bit more of money running through it. One can see it in the Istikbal furniture vendor in Hengam Avenue (a high priced furniture and interior design of Turkish roots), or the Haft-Hoz shopping area. The concentration of what I’m interested in is found near Resalat Square, and its surrounding region.
This section of the city glows with an honesty that reflects the Iranian nature by its streets, people, stores, surfaces, and sights. There are areas here that police rarely visit, highly-populated areas like Shemiran-Neau which is rarely ever visited by the Entezami forces; MB says that it’s because, after the “Inghelab” this neighborhood never changed, continuing its neighborhood watch, rules, and social guidelines which is why, he says, there are no cops, seeing that the “mafia” (in no relation to Al Pacino) and the people keep the peace.
However, considering that Tehran as a whole is a melting pot or mixing bowl of different classes, at all places and times, the East of Tehran is a great place to sharpen your visual, vocal, and social skills, the Iranian way. This issue was just to highlight the East of Tehran, show some of its beauty, although you’d have to wipe at the grime to get at it.
